Hookah History

Hookah History #1 - Puffin' at the old nargile
Source : Skylife

The dedicated smoker brings his own piece of the finest hookah tobacco for the one trusted waiter who knows exactly how much to dampen and place on the lüle, and how large a piece of live coal to set on top of it. The most famous coffee houses have today disappeared, but their memory remains, such as Pirinçci in Kuledibi, Güllü Agop Kiraathanesi in Gedikpasa, Valide Kiraathanesi in Eminönü, Ligor Kiraathanesi under the Galata Bridge and Erzurum Çayevi. Emirgan Çinaralti still survives but the nargile ceremonial has gone, along with its peaceful bubbling sound and wavering smoke.

One place where nargile smoking has not been forgotten is Erenler Nargile situated in Çorlulu Ali Pasa Medrese at Çemberlitas between the Blue Mosque and the Covered Bazaar. Of the 150 or so regular smokers, 30 have their own nargile. At all times of day curious tourists can be seen here watching the smokers puff away at their pipes.

A word of advice if you happen to be in such an establishment: Lighting your cigarette from the bowl of someone's nargile is an unforgiveable sin, and will certainly infuriate the smoker. Erenler Nargile's proprietor Sükrü Usta of Sivas, who has been in this business for 20 years, is optimistic about the future of nargile smoking. He says that many new customers try out the nargile every day, and that some become regulars. He even serves that breed of early morning smokers which I had assumed to be extinct.